Ireland’s history has certainly been
tumultuous, violent and complicated. And
learning about it made us think about how history is conceived, perceived and
how historical knowledge is best transferred.
In our family we are all breathing,
telling about and questioning history all the time. I am currently enjoying
Tony Judt’s “Memory Chalet”, while Rory is reading Zinn’s “People’s History of
the US”. Charlie and I studied the history of Southern Italian migration as we
uncovered the stories of his grandparents.
Ten years ago my sister Katinka
wrote her diploma thesis about the utilization of time witnesses in German
history perception (paraphrasing the title). Today she uses her craft of
documentary filmmaking to record the oral histories and lives of people who
were affected by the Holocaust.
In Berlin, walking around town you’ll discover
“Stolpersteine”, little brass plaques in the ground that remind you of the name
of a person who lived at the address and who was killed by the Nazis.
The Holocaust
memorial in downtown Berlin is much more abstract: a huge field of stone slabs
designed to make you feel uneasy and lost. The Obama family tried the effect the other day.
Back to Ireland. In Dublin, we went to
Dublinia - a museum “to lose yourself in Viking and Medieval Dublin”. It is
located where old and new Dublin meet, close to a site known as Wood Quay, which
was where the Vikings first settled the town in 841. In the early 1970ies, the city’s
government decided to build new civic offices right there. Once they had
cleared the site to ground level, they discovered the origins of the Viking
town.
Yet the government never realized
the archeological wealth and importance of the site, and despite years of
protests from Dubliners who wanted to protect their Viking heritage, in 1978
excavations were stopped, the whole site bulldozed and the new buildings
erected. Today the “Save Wood Quay” campaign itself has become part of Dublin’s
history and the subject of documentaries. Even though it failed to preserve the
Viking site, it has helped raise awareness of historical preservation.
Back to the Dublinia museum - I guess
museum experts would call the style “interactive multimedia.” You could touch stuff,
things talked, moved, lit up or made noises. Including a Viking going noisily
to the bathroom. The Vikings used moss to wipe their butts, in case you were
wondering.
Museums have come a long way from the traditional glass vitrines
with rows and rows of arrowheads. Today they want you to feel like you
are right there and to get a sense of what life was like. Yet, it comes across
a little too “bemueht”. Curators (or are they now designers?) work too hard to
hammer all your senses constantly, and strain (like the shitting Viking) too much
to help you “lose yourself”. I am just glad the medieval exhibit didn’t have an
olfactory element to it. The coughing mannequin dying from black death was
enough.
Then in Drogehda, we visited the little
museum at the foot of the Millmount tower. If you had walked through the place on
your own, it would have been a somewhat random collection of local artifacts donated
to the museum from private collections. But we walked the exhibition and the
tower accompanied by three different narrating guides. They brought Drogheda
and its past alive, even to me who had not studied much of Irish history to
date and who was overwhelmed by all the dates and names.
They told fascinating stories of the
life of factory workers, revolutionaries, Henry the VIII, Cromwell’s siege of
1649, Irish freedom fighters, a hand ball player and a boxer migrating to
Canada (the boxer’s Olympian outfit, unwashed after the fight as per his
request, is displayed). They explained 1800’s guild banners’ symbolism, and how
a Boyne River boat was built from sticks and leather, and what happened in 1922
when Irish Republicans and Irish Treaty supporters fought it out in Drogheda
and destroyed part of the Millmount tower in the process.
The Millmount guides were like that
great teacher some of us were fortunate to have, very knowledgeable and
passionate about their subject, able to make it personal, interesting and close
to the heart. Now I’ll always remember Drogheda and its turbulent history.
The word history means “knowledge from
inquiry”. I think telling stories is still the best way to transmit history.
Our kids often prompt Charlie… “Tell the story when the Hippie House got shot
at!”, or any of his numerous other stories they have heard many times. Driving
through Berlin last week, a place were 20th century history is in
your face all the time, Ruby asked me: What was Berlin like when you were a
kid? I’ll have some stories to tell….
